Sewing instructions for the WOOLI jacket!
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Ironing wool
Set your iron to the lowest setting for wool and silk. Avoid
direct contact between the hot iron and the fabric at all costs. Instead, simply place a damp cloth (preferably linen) between them. This will preserve the softness of the wool. If you are using a steam iron, keep the fabric at a distance from the steam. However, make sure that the hot iron does not come into direct contact with the wool. The steam will cause the fibers of the
fabric to straighten up again.
An ironing board is a good aid for ironing.
Cutting
The pattern does not include seam allowances. Hem allowances
are included and measure 3 cm.
Cut a strip of interfacing to the width of the button
placket and iron it onto the front piece on both sides from the left.
Pockets
Neaten the top edge of the pocket. Fold the fabric over at
the top edge of the pocket at the two markings (right sides together) and iron. Topstitch the sides. Turn right side out, shape the corners, and iron. Place the pockets on the two front pieces using the markings and sew on close to the edge.
Button placket
Reinforce the button placket on both sides with iron-on
interfacing. Neaten the fabric edge.
Shoulder seams
Reinforce the button placket on both sides with iron-on
interfacing. Neaten the fabric edge.
Shoulder seams
Neaten the shoulder seams. Place the front pieces right
sides together on the back piece, pin in place, and sew together. Iron the seam open.
Sleeves
Pin and sew on the sleeves. Neaten the seam.
Neaten all seams on the jacket except for the neckline.
Iron the sleeve hem inwards.
Close the side seams
Pin the jacket together. The right sides are on the inside.
Sew the side up to the sleeve hem.
Topstitch the sleeve hem.
Ears
Place 2 pieces on top of each other, sew together, trim the
seam allowances. Turn right side out through the opening, iron. Fold the pleats according to the markings.
Position the ears at the notches on the hood and pin in
place. One ear lies between 2 layers of fabric. Sew. Iron the seam apart.
Hood
Place both pieces of the hood right sides together. Sew the
rounded fabric edges together.
Work the hood lining in the same way, but without the ears,
of course.
Pin both hoods right sides together and sew along the front
edge. Turn right side out. Iron the front edge of the hood and topstitch.
Now pin the hood right sides together to the neckline of the
jacket.
The button plackets are folded outwards. The fabrics are
right sides together.
Stitch the button placket at the bottom of the hem to the
width of the presser foot.
Sew on the hood and neaten the seam. Shape the corners of
the button placket.
Buttons & buttonholes
Space the buttons and buttonholes evenly:
8.4 cm
8.6 cm
8.8 cm
9 cm
9.2 cm
